Ise from the Local Perspective
Wherever I go in the world, I have always said I am from Ise, Japan. Ise is my home — I was born and raised there, and it is, of course, where my family lives. Ise Jingū is widely regarded as the spiritual home of the Japanese people: its inner shrine, Naikū, is dedicated to Amaterasu Ōmikami, believed to be the ancestral deity of the Imperial family. What remains striking is that, centuries on, the reasons why people have been drawn to this place in such vast numbers remain somewhat elusive. What can be said with confidence, however, is that Ise occupies a singular position — both because of Ise Jingū and in a purely geographical sense. If you are expecting something dramatically Instagrammable or a clichéd vision of “Japan” — in other words, a caricatured exoticism — Ise may not be the place for you. You may well be disappointed by what you encounter at Ise Jingū, unless you are drawn to the understated and timeless architecture of a profoundly ancient style.
What Exactly Is Shintō?
Explaining Shintō is no straightforward task, particularly for those accustomed to monotheistic frameworks. That said, those familiar with the concept of “paganism” may find it somewhat easier to approach. Before attempting any explanation, however, it is worth noting that the very word “religion” is a relatively recent addition to the Japanese vocabulary. The term was coined when Japan reopened its borders and began the process of Westernisation; it was translated — or rather, borrowed — from Buddhist vocabulary, a context that differs considerably from the Western usage, and gradually entered common parlance after the mid-1870s. This naturally raises the question: were the Japanese atheists before then? The short answer is certainly not, though a full account of that would require another article entirely. In brief, Shintō is better understood as a way of life and a mode of coexistence with the physical world — with nature — and it stands in clear contrast to monotheism. Put simply, Shintō is woven into the fabric of everyday life in Japan.
Do They Believe in God, Then?
Kami is often rendered in English as “God”, though one must bear in mind that the concept differs substantially from its monotheistic counterpart. It might, arguably, be compared to “spirits”, though this is admittedly a rather rough approximation and one that is not without its complications. According to Ise Jingū itself, “kami derives from nature”, and “the Japanese have expressed the divine energy or life-force of the natural world as kami.” There is, for instance, a kami of rain, a kami of the sun, a kami of water, and so on. Notably, a human being may also be regarded as kami if that person has made an exceptional contribution to society.
So, What Is Ise Jingū?
Ise Jingū comprises 125 shrines spread across the Ise-Shima region. Naikū — known affectionately by locals as “Naikū-san” — is situated in the Uji district of Ise and is dedicated to Amaterasu Ōmikami. More precisely, it encompasses three shrines: Shōgu, the principal shrine, dedicated to the serene aspect of Amaterasu Ōmikami; Aramatsuri, dedicated to her more forceful aspect; and Kazahinominomiya (wind and rain), dedicated to Shinatsuhikono Mikoto and Shinatobeno Mikoto, children of Izanagino Mikoto. Gekū, located in the Yamada district of Ise, contains four shrines: the main shrine dedicated to Toyoukeno Ōmikami, who is charged with providing food for Amaterasu — and eating, it should be noted, is taken very seriously — Taganomiya, dedicated to the more vigorous aspect of Toyoukeno Ōmikami’s spirit; Tsuchinomiya (earth), dedicated to Otsuchino-oyamikami; and Kazenomiya (wind), dedicated to Shinatsuhikono Mikoto and Shinatobeno Mikoto.
Crucially, visitors are expected to follow a prescribed order: Gekū first, then Naikū. Within Naikū, the Isuzu River runs close to the shrine, and it has become a rather regrettable habit among some visitors to throw coins into the water or rinse their belongings there. Please do not do this. Coins corrode and render the river toxic, and such behaviour is, frankly, deeply disrespectful to nature. It is also worth noting that certain areas within the precinct prohibit photography and video recording — do bear this in mind.
It Is Rebuilt Every Twenty Years
If there is one feature that sets Ise Jingū apart above all others, it is Sengū: the ritual practice of rebuilding all the shrines entirely from scratch every twenty years, a custom that has continued almost without interruption since 690 CE. This practice has served as a remarkable vehicle for preserving and transmitting the ancient architectural tradition known as Shinmei-zukuri, though the precise reason for the twenty-year cycle remains unknown to this day. The new shrine is erected adjacent to the old one, meaning that in a Sengū year, visitors may observe both structures standing side by side — the next occasion being 2031 at the earliest. In preparation, Okihiki — the ceremonial transportation of timber by local people — takes place in the seven years prior to Sengū, meaning 2026 and 2027 in the current cycle. For Gekū, this is known as okabiki (carrying by land), scheduled for the 9th, 10th, 16th, 17th, 23rd, 24th, 30th and 31st of May, and the 1st, 2nd, 6th, 7th, and 13th of June. For Naikū, it is kawabiki (carrying by river), on the 25th and 26th of July and the 1st and 2nd of August 2026, with similar dates in 2027. This is not an event to miss — the next opportunity will not arise for another twenty years.
For Us Locals, Ise Jingū Is…
Ise Jingū has drawn visitors from across Japan for centuries, but one might reasonably wonder what it means to those who live there. For the people of Ise, it is unlikely to be thought of as a religious site or spiritual destination in any formal sense; it is, rather, something that permeates daily life. As noted above, okihiki is a tradition that has continued almost unbroken for over a thousand years, and it is a source of considerable local pride. The people of Ise have long welcomed visitors, and this openness has lent the city a vitality that persists to this day. Ise was also a significant node in maritime transport and commercial trade: Ōminato, for instance, was once among the foremost commercial hubs in Japan, alongside Sakai and Hakata, in the sixteenth century. Kawasaki in Ise, meanwhile, was where Japan’s first banknote — the Yamada Hagaki, first printed around 1610 — was issued and put into circulation. The Ise-Shima region is also notably rich in agricultural produce, meats, and seafood, a reputation attested even in historical documents, which describe the area as both beautiful and abundantly delicious.
This article may be updated in the future.